CYCLONE POWER FAN INSTALLATION Ford F-Series and Class A
Motorhome V-10 6.8L
(All figures referred to in this document are at the bottom of the
page.)
CAUTION: Allow sufficient time for engine and engine
coolant to cool before starting installation.
Remove coolant reservoir cap to relieve coolant pressure.
Remove the lug nut wrench.
Remove the three hold down bolts on the water reserve tank and
place the tank out of the way along the passenger side of the
engine. It is necessary to disconnect the small overflow hose.
Plug the nipple or cover it with tape.
Place clean, large-capacity drain pan under drain cock of
radiator. Open the drain cock and allow all the fluid to drain
into the pan. Cover the pan to keep any contaminants from dropping
into the fluid. Remove the upper radiator hose.
WARNING: Do not drink antifreeze or solution. If
swallowed, give two glasses of water and induce vomiting. Call a
physician. Ethylene glycol base. Avoid inhaling mist or hot
vapors. If inhaled, remove to fresh air. Ethylene glycol base
causes birth defects in laboratory animals. Do not store in open
or unlabeled containers. Wash thoroughly after handling. Solution
may taste pleasant to animals, but is poisonous to them. KEEP OUT
OF REACH OF CHILDREN.
Remove the top bolts of the fan shroud and move the shroud
rearward a few inches.
Note: With a marker, mark the front side of the fan for
reference later. A large piece of cardboard between the fan and
radiator before fan removal will protect the radiator from damage.
(This step will be repeated in reinstallation of the assembly.)
Using the fan tools available from U.S. Gear or the equivalent,
remove the stock fan assembly. Place the water pump tool on the
hub bolts and using the long fan tool on the large hex nut, loosen
with counter-clockwise rotation. (FIG. 2) (Right hand thread) A
1/2" ratchet or breaker bar can be used on the water pump tool for
additional leverage. It is very tight, so you may need to help it
along with a brass or lead hammer.
Carefully remove the fan assembly.
Place the stock fan assembly on the work bench for installation of
the Cyclone Power Fan. On the bench, remove the stock fan blade
assembly from the factory viscous (FIG. 3) unit and install along
with the fan disk on the new electric clutch Power Fan, using the
split washers and bolts provided. Be sure the fan blades are
facing the same direction as they were on the original clutch.
Apply lubricant to the threads of the threaded adapter and screw
into the hub of the clutch (FIG. 1).
Before installing the Power Fan assembly, an additional coolant
sending unit, thermostat connector elbow, anti-rotation stud, and
wiring harness must be installed and it is much easier without the
fan in place.
Remove the stock thermostat connector elbow and replace with the
connector included with the kit (FIG. 6). Put silicone sealant
sparingly on the threads of the new sending unit and screw and
tighten it into the threaded hole on the thermostat connector
elbow. NOTE: Do not use teflon tape or teflon sealant. (If any
anti-freeze is spilled, clean up the spill immediately.)
Remove the 10mm x 1.5 timing cover bolt located at the two o’clock
position of the water pump pulley (FIG. 6). Place the MN-7001 nut
onto the anti-rotation stud and screw the nut all the way to the
end of the threads. Install the anti-rotation stud and nut in the
place of the timing cover. You will back out the stud and tighten
the nut later. (FIG. 6)
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Class A Motorhome Special Instructions
Unlike F-Series pickups, the motorhome fan assembly is accessed
from underneath the vehicle. The shroud, fan, and clutch are
removed from the bottom. So if you are not using a lift, the front
of the vehicle will need to be elevated to provide clearance.
After draining the antifreeze, remove the lower radiator hose and
the overflow hose. Remove the clutch and fan assembly and bring
out to the work bench. It is necessary at this time to cut the
shroud at the three o’clock and nine o’clock positions to make a
top and bottom half.
Attach the "H" brackets as shown in FIG.4 to the top half of the
shroud. Drill the set holes in the bottom half for the 3/8" tap
screws.
Reinstall the top half of the shroud. Install the new fan and
clutch assembly.
Secure the bottom half of the shroud with the 3/8" tap screws.
Reinstall the lower radiator hose and the overflow hose.
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ENGINE COMPARTMENT WIRING
NOTE: A good ground is extremely important! Do not modify the
harness in any way.
Plan and lay out the wiring harness so that the 2-position clutch
connector will be in the fan clutch area, and the 6-position Power
Module connector will be able to run through the firewall on the
driver side.
As you complete the wiring in the engine compartment, use the wire
ties supplied to keep the wires away from belts, pulleys, and
other moving or hot parts.
Attach the blue wire with the "bullet" connector to the engine
coolant sending assembly. Attach the 2 black ground wires with the
large ring terminal to one of the thermostat connector elbow bolts
(FIG 7).
Note: The cardboard used during removal of the fan assembly
should be re-used in the following step.
With the plastic fan blade assembled on the new Power Fan,
start the assembly and shroud on the water pump hub, but do not
tighten at this time. Swing the anti-rotation arm to the two
o’clock position so that the anti-rotation stud can be backed out
through the slot to hold the arm in position. Finish threading the
fan assembly onto the water pump by hand. The installation tool
will not be needed since engaging the fan will finish tightening
the fan automatically. Be sure the anti-rotation arm is not
touching any belts or moving parts.
Unscrew the anti-rotation stud through the slot in the
anti-rotation arm so 1/4" of the shoulder end of the stud is
showing in front of the arm. Tighten the MN-7001 nut to secure the
anti-rotation stud.
Plug in the fan clutch electrical connector. Re-install the shroud
bolts and lug nut wrench. Re-install the water reserve tank and
overflow hose.
Refill the reservoir with anti-freeze up to "full" line marking on
the side of the reservoir.
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ELECTRICAL AND TRANSMISSION TEMPERATURE
(Refer to the diagram at the bottom of this page.)
Place the two-button control switch on the lower left side of the
dash. Run the wire harness from the switch, around the corner and
under the dash. Place the power module box under the dash, find a
convenient spot and "wire tie", then plug in the switch harness
connector. On vehicles with automatic transmissions, run the
engine compartment harness into the cab through the large plastic
cover behind the power distribution box. On vehicles with manual
transmissions, the engine compartment harness will run through the
small plastic cover in the tunnel area. Plug the engine
compartment harness into the Power Module. The red 12 volt wire
and yellow idle validation wire will remain under the dash. All
other wires should be on the engine side of the firewall.
Drop the green transmission fluid wire down to the trans cooling
return line.
After the transmission oil has cooled, locate the transmission
return (cool) line. For automatic transmissions, there are two
transmission fluid lines running parallel from the front of the
truck. The return line is farthest back on the transmission.
Install the hex manifold a couple inches behind the starter. For
manual transmissions, install the hex manifold in the line
which crosses under the radiator from driver side to passenger
side.
Cut the hard lines and install the compression fittings. NOTE: In
each application, the hex manifold relies on the hard cooling line
for proper grounding.
Assemble the Housing Assembly as shown in the diagram in the
center of this booklet. Be sure to use silicone sealant on all
threads. NOTE: Do not use teflon tape or teflon sealant.
Referring to the diagram in the center of this booklet, note that
the cooling lines are installed on the ends of the hex manifold,
and the Cyclone thermistor and plug (for optional transmission
temperature gauge) install into the hex sides of the manifold.
Under the dash, install the microswitch and bracket using the
diagram provided (FIG. 8 for F-Series, FIG. 5 for Class A). Using
a butt connector attach the yellow wire from the harness to one of
the black wires of the microswitch (there is no polarity, so it
does not matter which wire you connect to). Attach the other black
wire to a switched 12 volt source (radio fuse is recommended)
using one of the mini fuse taps provided.
Find a 12 volt switched source and attach the red wire using the
second mini fuse tap provided. NOTE: If the truck is equipped
with any aftermarket addition which allows the engine to run with
the key off (remote starters, turbo savers, etc.) you will need to
determine an alternate fuse location which will allow the fan to
run any time the engine is running.
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SYSTEM CHECK
Start the truck and check for leaks at engine coolant sender,
transmission temperature sender, and at all hoses.
Verify that the controller and clutch are working properly. When
the truck is started, the Green (Automatic mode) LED should light
up if the cab of the truck is cool.
If the cab temperature is warm and the throttle is not depressed,
the Red (Engaged mode) LED should light up and the fan should
engage. If the Red LED is lighted, and then the throttle is
depressed, the Green (Automatic mode) LED should light and the fan
should disengage.
To test the Super Cooling feature, press the Blue button. The fan
should engage and the Blue LED should light up. Press the Red
(Power) button to disengage Super Cooling.
Refer to the
Operating Instructions in the Customer Information packet for
more information on the operation and safety features of the
Cyclone Power Fan.
WARNING: When the fan is off (disengaged), the fan will
still spin slowly due to bearing drag (approx. 150 RPM). Under NO
circumstances should you place your hand, or any object, in the
fan while the engine is running.
